FPW 2018 Day 2 – Review
FPW day 2 had some of the top names in the Pakistan Fashion Industry displaying their collections.
From Deepak Perwani, we expect much more.
FPW Day 2 commenced with Pakistani fashion maestro Deepak Perwani’s ‘Black is the New White’: a collection comprised of airy summer silhouettes, diaphanous fabrics and strategically positioned slits. The women’s offering was sexy, with coquettish plumes, flowing silks, playful fringes and flirty cut-outs. The men’s range was an array of smart, monochromatic tailoring and clean looks. Yet, the entire collection felt too mainstream for the runway. It was commercially driven, emulating international high-street brands that offer similar separates for a fraction of the price. From Deepak Perwani, we expect much more!
Saira Shakira: Saira needed no gimmicks to sell fashion.
Saira Shakira’s runway show was a love letter to modern opulence sprinkled with the enduring charm of tradition. Models were accoutered in classic yet contemporary pastel palettes, delicately embroidered or embellished with stones, pearls, crystals and exquisite thread work. Styling was minimal because each outfit spoke for itself. Saira Shakira presented a collection that emphasizes the fact that virtuosity and talent are enough: no gimmicks are needed to sell fashion if the sanctity of the creative process is upheld.
Rozina Munib: Munib has done some great work in the past but this simply wasn’t her season.
Rozina Munib’s ‘Glamorama’ was a blinding outpour of glitter, immoderate frills, unapologetic (and unflattering) displays of skin, and billowing fabric. It was simply overdone. From the Cinderella-esque mid-night blue show-stopper gown to Sadaf Kanwal’s garishly golden cape and silver-bustier ensemble, Glamorama was painfully ostentatious. Although there were redeeming elements in the collection, they were lost amidst the mayhem of excessive ornamentation. We spotted some stylishly bejewelled pants, thoughtlessly paired with highly distracting and voluminous tops, or hidden under unnecessary overlays. Although Munib has done some great work in the past but this simply wasn’t her season.
Nauman Arfeen: Nauman offered a welcome contrast to women’s wear.
Lines by Nauman Arfeen was poetic in its clean modernity and urban simplicity. The draped men’s kurtas felt fresh (if not entirely wearable), and the androgynous women’s wear offered a stark, yet welcome contrast to the reigning overtly feminine or overdone silhouettes at FPW.
Natasha Kamal: She had us bewitched and hungry for more.
Natasha Kamal’s clean hair and makeup looks provided the perfect backdrop for her minimal yet chic aesthetic. Inspired by the infinite patterns of marble, Kamal’s prints were abstract yet very a la mode. Each look sent down the ramp seemed to be thoughtfully curated as part of a cohesive range. Kamal’s tailoring was immaculate and impactful. It beautifully combined western silhouettes with eastern sensibilities and vice versa. The two sensual saris and an elegant bottle green skirt-lehnga had us bewitched and hungry for more.
Boheme by Kanwal: Some hits and some misses from Boheme by Kanwal.
Boheme by Kanwal was a cheerful riot of colour and local craft, expressed through delicate hand embroidery, mirror work, thread work and a bold palette. There were some winning pieces but others (like a sari with a shrunken jacket), left us baffled. Zoe Viccaji embodied Kanwal’s hit or miss artsy aesthetic in a tent-like (albeit impressive) ball gown.
FPW Finale: Ayesha F. Hashwani’s Fine Finale with Versace undertones.
The dramatic final dose of fashion was administered by glamazon Ayesha Farooq Hashwani. Signature AFH elements included asymmetrical cuts, lustrous silks, embellished brooches, trailing fringes, lots of slits, bare midriffs, off-shoulders and even some daring cleavage. Ayesha’s vision of the sultry Amazonian goddess was reminiscent of the strong, feline models of the 90s (Cindy and Naomi), as well as the era of Gianni Versace’s Milan. Perhaps it was the stark similarity to House of Versace signature colours (yellow, black and white) and classic patterns that were referenced throughout Hashwani’s collection. Either way, it was a fine finale that brought yet another fashion week to a close.
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